Baron Bigod — The Complete Guide

Baron Bigod: Britain's Finest Soft Cheese

Baron Bigod is, by many accounts, the greatest soft cheese made in Britain — and one of the finest Brie-style cheeses made anywhere in the world. It is Britain's only raw milk Brie-de-Meaux-style cheese, made at Fen Farm Dairy in Suffolk using milk from the farm's own Montbéliarde herd and traditional ladle-moulding techniques.

What Makes It Special

Three things separate Baron Bigod from ordinary Brie-style cheeses:

1. Raw Milk

The cheese is made from unpasteurised milk — preserving the full microbial complexity of the milk and producing a depth of flavour that pasteurisation would eliminate. This is the primary reason the cheese cannot be replicated industrially.

2. The Breed: Montbéliarde Cattle

The Crickmores chose Montbéliarde cattle specifically for cheesemaking. A French breed from the Franche-Comté region, Montbéliardes produce milk with higher protein and fat content — ideal for soft cheese production. The breed's milk has a particular richness that expresses itself clearly in the finished cheese.

3. Ladle-Moulding

Industrial Brie is made by pumping acidified milk into moulds under pressure. Traditional Brie-de-Meaux is made by hand — the curd is scooped into moulds with a large ladle called a pelle à brie. This gentle process preserves the curd structure and results in a more complex, open paste with better texture.

The Crickmores use this traditional technique, making Baron Bigod one of very few Brie-style cheeses in the world to be ladle-moulded.

The Ripening Journey

Baron Bigod evolves dramatically as it ripens — buying it at the right stage is as important as buying it at all.

Young (5–6 weeks): The paste is still firm and slightly chalky at the centre. A white, downy rind is forming. The flavour is mild, fresh, and slightly mushroomy.

Ready (7–8 weeks): The paste is beginning to soften and yield. The rind has developed golden tones. Flavours are becoming complex — mushroom, toasted hay, cream.

Peak ripeness (8–10 weeks): This is the moment. Cut into a perfectly ripe Baron Bigod and the interior flows — a silky, almost liquid paste that pools on the plate. The aroma is extraordinary: earthy, truffle-like, with notes of butter, wild mushroom, and a long umami finish.

Over-ripe: The paste becomes very runny and may develop ammonia notes. Still edible, but the peak has passed.

Ask your cheesemonger what stage the cheese is at. If they know their cheese, they will tell you.

Flavour Profile

Wild mushroom, toasted hay, rich cream, gentle earthiness, long savoury finish with a hint of truffle depth at peak ripeness.

Pairings

Wine: English sparkling wine is the ideal pairing — its acidity cuts through the richness while respecting the complexity. Champagne also works beautifully. Avoid heavy reds.

Beer: A Belgian-style saison or a light, fruity wheat beer.

Accompaniments:

• Walnut bread — the richness of the nuts matches the cheese
• Figs (fresh or dried) — sweetness against savouriness
• Honey — a small amount drizzled over a ripe piece is transcendent
• Sourdough, lightly toasted

Avoid: Strong chutneys or pickles that would overwhelm the delicate flavour.

Where to Buy

Baron Bigod is not a supermarket cheese. It requires specialist handling and is available from:

• Neal's Yard Dairy — the most reliable source in London
• Direct from Fen Farm Dairy (online orders, cold-chain delivery)
• The Courtyard Dairy, The Fine Cheese Co., and similar specialist cheesemongers nationwide

The Crickmores also make Bungay Butter and Bungay Raw Cream from their Montbéliarde herd — worth seeking out alongside the cheese.

Baron Bigod is the cheese that proved Britain could make world-class soft cheese. It repays proper attention: buy from a specialist, wait for the right ripeness, serve it at room temperature, and give it the silence it deserves.